Recipe for an Apron

What little cook wouldn’t enjoy having their very own apron? This is a fun gift to make and the “recipe” is easy!

  • 1 dish towel that would make a cute apron!
  • 2 ¼ to 2 ½ yards of ribbon or twill tape for ties and neck band
  • 1 spool of thread for sewing
  • A little imagination for decorating.

The directions are simple too!

Begin by cutting a triangle off each side of the top portion. I cut about 4 ½ inches from the edge and about 9 ½ inches down the side on the diagonal. The attached picture shows the triangle portion I cut from each side.

apron-1

Next, finish the cut edge and fold under about 1 inch. Press the fold, then sew near the edge with a straight stitch. Insert the 2 ¼ to 2 ½ yards of ribbon inside the seam feeding from one side to the other for the ties and neckband. Next, fold up about 8 inches on the bottom.

apron-2

Sew this folded portion along the sides to form a large pocket then divide into 3 sections by marking the seam line with chalk. Sew down each line to make the pockets.

The little apron is now complete except for decorating. I embroidered the child’s name along with flowers or animals. However you decide to decorate the apron, it will be a hit because it was made especially for the child!

apron-3

Just like all good recipes this one was passed on to me by a great cook and a very good seamstress….Zede! The holidays are just around the corner and children love to make cookies and special treats! This little apron would just be “the icing on the cake!”

If you make an apron, would you mind uploading a picture of it on our Facebook page?

Remaking History

The gown in 1911 A few weeks ago Pat Brooks came into Zede’s wanting advice or help in repairing a christening gown her father had worn in 1911. Click on the images at the bottom of this post for the entire evolution of the gown in the gallery below.

Since that time the gown had been stored in a closet with a number of other older garments her father and her grandmother had worn.

Recently, her daughter-in-law asked if the gown could be used to baptize the newest granddaughter. Pat found the gown but discovered it was discolored and it had several small holes where the fabric had simply disintegrated. Someone suggested she soak the gown in Borax to bring back the lovely white color.

I volunteered to repair the gown mainly because Pat is a friend and this would be a labor of love. As Zede suggested, I used cotton batiste to make a yoke to place over the holes in the fabric. A similar design was embroidered on the yoke. The edge of the yoke was finished with a satin stitch before attaching it to the gown. I made several yokes before deciding it fit over the existing gown to look as though it had always been a part of the gown.

I made a “sandwich” with the older fabric of the gown in the middle by placing a yoke facing inside the gown. They were hand sewn to the gown individually because the gown was so fragile and this gave it more stability.

In addition to repairing the gown, I also made a “slip” or under gown to wear under the gown and after the ceremony. The 97-year-old gown would be used only during the ceremony plus the “slip” would be much softer on her delicate skin.

This was my first venture in heirloom sewing. I used French seams on the gown. This gave a lovely finish to the inside of the garment. A decorative shell stitch was used on the lower edge of the facing attached to the neck of the gown. Machine embroidered flowers completed the front of the gown and the child’s name with the date she was baptized was embroidered on the lower back of the gown using cotton thread. The lower edge of the gown was finished with a lace edge.

Tooting my own horn, I have to say I was pleased with the finished garments. We all need to toot our own horn now and then. There is nothing wrong with it! Don’t you agree?

Have you ever tried heirloom sewing? Tell me about it in the comment section. I’d love to swap stories!

Sittin’ easy by re-covering patio cushions.

cushionsHave you ever looked at your old patio chair cushions and decided that they just had to go?  I did that recently.  Basically, my cushions were still great “inside”, but I had left them outside over the winter and they really looked bad!

I tried power washing them to clean them, but they were really faded and I just decided I either had to purchase or make new cushions.

I shopped for new cushions but I didn’t find what I wanted.  Since I was replacing cushions, I wanted them to match or coordinate with the downstairs patio furniture.  We have an upper deck and a lower patio area.  We had a pond built a couple of years ago, so we use both areas a lot during the summer and fall time of the year.   The furniture downstairs is brown outdoor wicker with rust color cushions.

Zede had asked Linda “B” and I to attend a workshop in Fenton, Missouri at The Tacony Corporation to learn to use the new Jewell long arm quilting machine in April.  Naturally we had to go fabric shopping!

I found this great fabric for the new cushions.  Linda thought it would look good with my other patio furniture also. Its outdoor canvas which means it is heavier and perfect for the outdoor cushions.

I took one of the old cushions apart to use as a pattern for the new cushions.  It had piping or bias cording around the edge that I also removed.  I cut out the pieces for two cushions from the new fabric and I allowed an extra two inches at the back or bottom of each cushion to turn under and hand sew together.  I knew I could not get the two cushion pieces on the sewing machine to finish sewing them together!

I asked Zede for advice on the type of thread and the size needle to use on the outdoor canvas.  She suggested Mettler metrosene plus thread and using a size 80 or 90 jeans needle.

According to “Needle ABC “by Schmetz,“ a jeans needle has a medium ball point that penetrates thick and solid fabrics easier without damaging the material.  The reinforced blade causes less deflection of the needle and reduces the risk of breakage or skipped stitches”. I selected the Bernina size 80 jeans needles for my project.

Zede also suggested I use a longer stitch on the machine to sew the cushions.  I changed the length of the stitch from a 2.5mm to a 4.0mm on the machine. In sewing terms, a 2.5mm means about 10-12 stitches will be in each inch of your sewing.   I might add that if you are making several cushions, it is recommended that you change needles every 6 hours of sewing.   (My chair cushions did not take near that long to sew together!)  Zede also suggested I use the piping I took off the old cushions as trim for the new ones.  The inside of the cushions was in great shape so I didn’t have to worry about new stuffing either!

I serged the edge of all the cushions before sewing the pieces together.  The outdoor canvas did not ravel easily, but I thought this would add to the durability of the cushions.  I used one of the cushions as a guide while I sewed then tore it apart.  That helped me to put the pieces back together correctly.  They looked great when I finished with the machine sewing part of the project!  I left the lower end or bottom of each cushion completely open to put the inside piece of stuffing in each of the cushions.  There was a back and a seat piece for each chair that I needed to sew together before the job would be complete.  The bottom of each piece had to be sewn shut before I could attach them together.  I folded the raw edges under and used  ¼” Steam- A- Seam to hold them in place.  I also slip stitched each cushion piece closed.  Steam-A-Seam 2 Double Stick Fusible Web is great for holding fabric pieces together.  You can hold something temporarily or permanently bond it if you iron the pieces together.  I just wanted to hold the pieces together while I slip stitched them together.  I could have used Wonder Under to hold the pieces together also.  It would have worked just as great!

The major problem in remaking the cushions was attaching those two cushion parts back together.  I did this using a backstitch.  I started in the middle of the cushion and stitched each cushion to the edge then back to the middle twice.  My original cushions had Velcro attached to the top back on each side to secure the cushion to the chair.  I did not reattach the Velcro pieces because I now take them in after every use!  (I don’t want to replace them again anytime soon!)

I have to say the new cushions look great in the chairs on my deck!

I saved money by redoing the cushions, they’re comfortable, and they match my other outdoor furniture cushions.